Detail from La Torre
Ek Balam
The Black Jaguar
The name Ek Balam means Black Jaguar in the Mayan language. The Mayan ruin of Ek Balam was occupied by the Maya from sometime between 100 b.c. and 300 a.d. until the arrival of the Spanish in the early 1500s. The peak of development at Ek Balam was between 700 a.d. and 1000 a.d. when many new buildings were constructed and many older ones were enlarged. Ek Balam was an important city in the Mayan world prior to the rise of Chichen Itza, which was founded much later.
Ek Balam may have been an agricultural center for the Maya. Corn, honey, beeswax and cotton are harvested in the area now and were likely plentiful during the time that Ek Balam was inhabited.
Building with Defensive Wall
The year 1200 a.d. marked the beginning of a gradual decline at Ek Balam. After this point the only new buildings constructed were small in size, no large new building projects were taken on. This may reflect a population decline among the Maya of Ek Balam. When Ek Balam was abandoned, the jungle overtook it and all the buildings were covered by plant life.
Defensive Walls
The site of Ek Balam has multiple rings of low defensive walls around it. Some of the buildings along this perimeter appear to be constructed in order to facilitate defense as well. In one place I noticed that the walls have a switchback entry which slows down anyone passing through, this would have aided defense as well.
More to Discover
Las Gemelas - The Twin Temples
Ek Balam has a number of large buildings, several of which have not yet been excavated from the jungle. When you are there you will notice a couple of large hills in the jungle, but rest assured there are no hills in the area, these are huge buildings waiting for the archaeologists to restore them.
Las Gemelas - The Twins
One interesting building at Ek Balam is called Las Gemelas, which means The Twins in Spanish. Obviously this is not the original Maya name for the structure. Las Gemelas is two nearly identical temples which were constructed side-by-side.
La Torre - The Tower
One recently renovated building at Ek Balam is called La Torre (the Tower in Spanish). I have also seen this building referred to as the Acropolis (another non-Mayan name). La Torre is an immense building and on a clear day you can see the ruins of Coba, to the south, from it's summit. La Torre is one of the largest buildings ever excavated in the Mayan world and features some of the most incredible carvings I have seen. There is one doorway which is an ornate and highly stylized mouth opening, complete with a face, eyes, eyebrows and huge teeth.
Many Detailed Carvings
Arch at the Sacbeob Intersection
In addition to the richly detailed mouth-doorway on La Torre there are many other amazing carvings which adorn the building. Ek Balam also has a number of other places where there is intricate carving, including on several stelae which are fascinating.
Sacbeob - White Roads
Like other Mayan sites Ek Balam has it's share of sacbeob (sacbe is the singular) which are raised roads that the Maya built through the jungle. These roads were built of limestone which is so light in color that travelers along these roads would have been visible even at night. At Ek Balam there is an archway which stands at the intersection of 4 sacbeob.
Ek Balam is not overrun by tourists which makes it a very peaceful place to visit. I highly recommend Ek Balam.
Fees
- Fee: $24 pesos, under $2.50 usd.
Mexicans and Mexican residents get into all Mexican Archaeological sites for free on Sundays.
Getting There
View from the top of La Torre
From Cancún
Ek Balam is 188 kilometers (about 115 miles) from Cancun. To get there take Avenida Lopez-Portillo going west, this becomes the Cancun-Merida Road. We always take the Libre (freeway) at the edge of Cancún, rather than the faster Cuota (tollway). Just before you reach the city of Valladolid turn right onto Highway 295 towards Tizimin, then watch for the many signs to Ek Balam. Ek Balam is about two and half hours from Cancun via the Libre.
From Tulum
Ek Balam is 129 kilometers (about 80 miles) from Cancun. To get there take the road to Chemax from Tulum, this is the same road you take to Coba. Turn left at Chemax onto the Cancun-Merida Road. Just before you reach the city of Valladolid turn right onto Highway 295 towards Tizimin, then watch for the many signs to Ek Balam. Ek Balam is about 2 hours from Tulum.
Hours
- Open Daily 8:00 am - 5:30 pm
What to Bring
- Sunscreen
- Hat
- Mosquito Repellant
- Water Bottle
- Camera
- Snack
- Sturdy Shoes - suitable for rough terrain
What’s Nearby
Ek Balam just a half hour from the historic city of Valladolid which has some lovely restaurants. In the other direction lies the city of Tizimin, which is also an old and historic city in Yucatan.
Suggested Reading
-
"
The Maya
" by Michael D. Coe
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"
Maya Cosmos
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"
The Ancient Maya
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"
The Caste War of Yucatan
Errors and Omissions
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